Konjaku Kioi Toyama Ryu Dojo Toyama Ryu Batto Do
Konjaku Kioi Dojo
(Ancient and Modern Fighting Spirit Dojo)
5980 66th St N Suite M
St Petersburg FL 33709
Email: info@toyama-ryu.com
Phone: 727-329-9679
Yari (Spear)

Home
Hataya Sensei DVD
Search
Bushido
Respect for Katana
Sword Dictionary
How to Guides
    Bow In Ceremony
    Warm Up Exercises
    Bow Out Ceremony
    Wearing Uniform
    Formal Uniform
    Wearing Daisho
    Uniform Folding/Care
Katana Selection
    Sword Dimensions
    Sword Testing
Katana Maintenance
    Katana Cleaning
    Mekugi Replacement
    Katana Disassembly
    Is my sword sharp?
    Edge Geometry
    Surface Polish
    Sharpening Guide
Training Basics
    Kihon (Fundamentals)
    8 Basic Cuts
    Toyama Kata
    Toyama Kukmitachi
    Seitei Kata
Taikai Guides
    Taikai Rules
    Judging Guide
Tameshigiri
    Target Prep & Spiking
    Cutting Patters
    Cutting Videos
    Target Comparison
St Petersburg Dojo
    Intro Letter
    Femal Sensei
    Dojo Members
    Code of Conduct
    Classes and Fees
Promotion Pictues
Rank Testing
Links

Dojo Crest 

Katana Cleaning

Katana must be cleaned immediately after tameshigiri and at the end of class.  Unlike most decorative wall hangers - real katana rust!  If the blade is touched - it needs to be immediately cleaned unless you want to personalize your blade with rust fingerprints.

You can find Katana Maintenance supplies at the Nihonzashi online shop.  These should also be available from most quality stores carrying swords.  We recommend using the proper supplies to minimize risk to your investment, but we also let you know alternatives that can be used.The dojo store offers full sharpening, repair, and customization services to keep your katana in top working order.

What You Need

Nuguigami: Wiping Paper for Sword Made of a soft, sensitive pulp tissue Made exclusively for wiping your sword. Wipes off the excessive oil and unnecessary dust.  Common substitutes are soft paper towels or tissue paper (don't use those with scents or lotion).

Wiping cloth: A flannel cloth, old towel, or hand-cloth can be used for quick cleaning to wipe debris and residue from the blade after tameshigiri or handling.  This cloth can be reused multiple times.  Nuguigami, paper towels, or tissue paper (don't use those with scents or lotion) can also be used, but should not be reused.

Choji Oil: A superb rust preventive oil. This is not clove oil which will cause your blade to rust. Common substitute is camelia or mineral oil.

Oiling Cloth: Flanel cloth in a storage case used to apply a coating of choji oil to the blade.  This cloth can be reused multiple times.  Nuguigami, paper towels, or tissue paper (don't use those with scents or lotion) can also be used, but should not be reused.

Uchiko Ball: Finely ground stone powder (hazuya and jizuya) in a silk ball.

Quick Cleaning

Your should do a quick cleaning immediately after handled your sword or after performing tameshigiri (test cutting).  This cleans off any corrosive residue off the blade. 

  1. Prepare all the materials you need before removing the katana from the saya (scabbard).  You will not be setting the katana down and everything you don't do here will need to be done with one hand.  You will need a wiping cloth, oiling cloth, and choji oil (sword oil).  Make sure the oiling cloth is saturated with choji oil.

    Sword Cleaning Kit
     
  2. Carefully remove the blade from the saya.  The saya should be held in the left hand and the sword should be drawn out with the right hand.  The left hand should remain motionless with the right hand doing the effort.  The sword is held edge up and the blade should slide on the mune (back surface away from edge). The kissaki (tip) of the katana should be always be kept pointing slightly upwards.  This is a good habit since a katana may not always have a mekugi (bamboo pin in handle) to keep the tsuka (handle) on.

     
  3. Gently tap any debris from the saya (scabbard).  Tameshigiri (test cutting) often leaves pieces of the target on the blade and these can build up in the saya.  These can cause the blade to become corroded and eventually cause the katana to not seat properly.  The koiguchi (mouth) of the saya can be tapped on a semi-hard surface, but care should be taken since the water buffalo horn ring on some saya tend to fracture.  The saya can then be laid down on your left side.
     
  4. Wipe any debris and residue from the blade with the wiping cloth.  Hold the tsuka (handle) in your left hand with the ha (edge) pointed away from yourself.  Lay the wiping cloth on the top of the blade at the habaki (blade collar).  Wipe only in one direction from the tsuba (guard) to the kissaki (tip).  Use your thumb running along the mune (back of the katana) to keep you fingers away from the ha (edge).  You should only need to wipe the blade once or twice, but make sure all residue has been removed.  Lay the wiping cloth on your hand and repeat the process on the bottom of the blade.  If your katana has bo-hi (grooves) make sure you wipe them by pinching the wiping cloth between your fingers.

       
     
  5. Oil the blade using the oiling cloth.  This is the same process as the previous step.  The blade only needs to be wiped once.  The entire surface of the blade needs to be covered.  Try not to get too much oil on or under the habaki (blade collar).

     
     
  6. Put the katana back in the saya reversing the process used to remove it.  The katana should not be slammed back into the saya since this can damage the koiguchi (mouth) of the saya.

Normal Cleaning

You should do a normal cleaning before putting the sword away.  This should be done at home after training.

  1. Prepare all the materials you need before removing the katana from the saya (scabbard).  You will not be setting the katana down and everything you don't do here will need to be done with one hand.  You will need two pieces of nuguigami (wiping paper), oiling cloth, choji oil (sword oil), and an uchiko ball (cleaning powder).  Make sure the oiling cloth is saturated with choji oil.


     
  2. Carefully remove the blade from the saya.  The saya should be held in the left hand and the sword should be drawn out with the right hand.  The left hand should remain motionless with the right hand doing the effort.  The sword is held edge up and the blade should slide on the mune (back surface away from edge). The kissaki (tip) of the katana should be always be kept pointing slightly upwards.  This is a good habit since a katana may not always have a mekugi (bamboo pin in handle) to keep the tsuka (handle) on.

     
     
  3. Gently tap any debris from the saya (scabbard).  Tameshigiri (test cutting) often leaves pieces of the target on the blade and these can build up in the saya.  These can cause the blade to become corroded and eventually cause the katana to not seat properly.  The koiguchi (mouth) of the saya can be tapped on a semi-hard surface, but care should be taken since the water buffalo horn ring on some saya tend to fracture.  The saya can then be laid down on your left side.
     
  4. Wipe any choji oil from the blade with a clean piece of nuguigami (wiping paper).  Hold the tsuka (handle) in your left hand with the ha (edge) pointed away from yourself.  Lay the nuguigami on the top of the blade at the habaki (blade collar).  Wipe only in one direction from the tsuba (guard) to the kissaki (tip).  Use your thumb running along the mune (back of the katana) to keep you fingers away from the ha (edge).  You should only need to wipe the blade once or twice, but make sure all oil has been removed.  Lay the wiping cloth on your hand and repeat the process on the bottom of the blade.  If your katana has bo-hi (grooves) make sure you wipe them by pinching the nuguigami between your fingers.

       
     
  5. Use the uchiko ball (cleaning powder) on the blade once the choji oil has been removed.  Choji oil will clog the surface of the uchiko ball if it has not been removed.  The uchiko ball is tapped every few inches along the shinogi (flat surface on the top side of the blade).  Uchiko is a very mild abrasive and should not be used on aluminum iaito blades.  Wipe the uchico off the blade with a fresh piece of nuguigami using the same process as the previous step.  Note that this is the best time to view a katana.  You will need to repeat this step if you use this opportunity to view or show your katana.

       
     
  6. Oil the blade using the oiling cloth.  This is the same process as the previous steps.  The blade only needs to be wiped once.  The entire surface of the blade needs to be covered.  Try not to get too much oil on or under the habaki (blade collar).

     
     
  7. Put the katana back in the saya reversing the process used to remove it.  The katana should not be slammed back into the saya since this can damage the koiguchi (mouth) of the saya.

     

Copyright 2006 by Konjaku Kioi Toyama Ryu Dojo, All rights reserved.

Samurai Swords   Iaito (Practice Swords)   Shinken (Cutting Swords)  Wakizashi (Short Swords)
Tanto (Daggers)   Japanese Weapons   Maintenance   Uniforms   Sharpening   Sword Repair  
Martial Arts Dictionary  Your Name in Japanese  Dojo Stories  Tatami Targets